mutterings from Masindi

Things never go quite as planned in Uganda! Our lift could not take all our luggage so we had to leave several bags behind in Kampala. We were supposed to leave early afternoon but did not get out of Kampala until after 6. This meant we broke rule no. 27 in the VSO handbook which says you should not travel after dark. Luckily Suliman the was an experienced driver and got us to Masindi safely at 10.30 despite the state of the roads and the lorries with no lights. Apparently many Ugandan lorries travel with no battery. Once they have been started the driver takes the battery out in case it is stolen! There is a belief that driving with lights slows the vehicle down. The Ugandan highway code seems to be 'size matters' - the biggest vehicle has right of way. As our house isn't yet ready we had arranged to stay at Court View Hotel. Unfortunately, as we arrived late they had let the room but luckily the wonderful Sallie found us another hotel (we were serenaded all night by a frog under the bed - not the the wide-mouthed one!). We returned to Court View the next day and still remain. (Maggie is enjoying the hospitality, especially the red wine!). We have had several dates for moving into the house. Today we have been told it will be ready by Wednesday. Good news is that Maggie returned to Kampala and has bought a fridge. As we speak, our bed and table are being made locally (though with all the power cuts, who knows when they'll be ready). Power seems to be off more than it is on so we've stocked up with candles.
We're slowly adapting to the pace of life and keep being told to stop trying to get to the end of the race before it's started. Why is it that driving is the only thing that happens quickly in Uganda.
The hospital is incredibly short of resources but very busy. Malaria is the commonest problem. If a patient has had a fever in the last 3 days you presume malaria and treat, if the fever has been for longer you do a blood smear, if it is positive you treat for malaria. If it is negative you do not believe it and you treat for malaria. Unfortunately the hospital pharmacy has run out of adult dose Co-artem the recommended treatment. HIV and TB are common and there is a real shortage of drugs for opportunistic infections. There are no xrays and few reagents for blood tests. This makes diagnosis a real clinical challenge and Chris has a lot to learn from the clinicians here. The remarkable thing is that people seem to survive and it is a sobering thought to learn how resilient the human body is and how great the will to survive.
The social high spot of our week is a trip to Kinyara sugar plantation's swimming pool. A trip denied to most of Masindi but gratefully accepted by the VSOers.
Please keep us abreast of your news. The outside world seems a long way away.